New Mexico

This region with its confluence of Native American, Spanish, and Mexican cultures is rich in history and art; the food is hearty and honest; the landscapes undeniably beautiful; the people friendly. Everyone has an interesting story to tell, from the man in Santa Fe whose family traces back to the Spanish who arrived in the sixteenth century to the tie-dye artist who moved to Taos, escaping the gentrification of Denver, Colorado. This is the kind of place you live in all your life or you pass by on your travels and end up staying because you heard the mountains whisper your name. The story of Mabel Dodge and Tony Luhan (which you can read about in her memoir, Edge of Taos Desert) is a particularly striking example of how this part of the world can alter your life’s trajectory. One glimpse of Taos and she knew she was home. Needless to say, I did not hear any call. I am too much a creature of the humid tropics to be a child of the high desert mountains of New Mexico, but I can at least recognise that this is a land charged with a certain magic.

Where to stay

Albuquerque

Bottger Mansion of Old Town

This is a lovely B&B right in the Old Town with each room carefully themed to reflect Albuquerque’s history. Breakfast is a real treat with owner Steve in charge of the cooking. 

Santa Fe

El Farolito B&B

A stunning B&B designed and decorated to immerse you in New Mexico’s unique heritage. Kelly, the innkeeper, was amazing and you will feel very much at home in their comfortable rooms. 

Taos

Mabel Dodge Luhan House

This is a truly special place. Mabel Dodge, a rich socialite with Bohemian leanings, came to New Mexico and fell in love with the mountains and a Taos Pueblo Indian named Tony Luhan. He chose this land bordering the reserve for her to build a house and its views are simply stunning. The house has hosted many a luminary, including D. H. Lawrence, Georgia O’Keefe, Willa Cather, and Ansel Adams. Breakfast is a feast and there are always homemade treats to snack on through the day if you get peckish. Check out the Solarium room. Access is through a very steep staircase (more like a ladder), but the room has unparalleled panoramic views of the surroundings.

Where to eat

Albuquerque as a city isn’t much to look at, but we certainly found the food there to be superb.

Indian Pueblo Kitchen

This is an excellent place to try some more unusual Native American dishes. The bison cabbage stew was delicious—just pure goodness in a bowl.  

The Original Cocina Azul

Make sure to order the green chilli stew. It was generous, and very, very good New Mexican soul food. Portions are large here, so go easy with your orders, or you might be leaving with indigestion! 

Sawmill Market

An old sawmill has been given a new lease of life by turning it into a hipster food court. The food selections are great and the environs very pleasant. 

Santa Fe

Santa Fe has some solid eateries and its old town is extremely picturesque.  

The Shed 

A cozy restaurant with hearty New Mexican fare. Solid and dependable. 

Kakawa Chocolate House

If you like fine chocolates and hot chocolate with a New Mexican twist (think chilis and desert ingredients), then you have to make a stop here.

Taos

Manzanita Market

This is a very nice café for soups, salads, and sandwiches. 

What to see

Museum of International Folk Art, Santa Fe

An extraordinary collection of folk art from around the world. The Girard wing on its own is mind-boggling, being the private collection of the Girards who obsessively collected folk art on their extensive travels. 

Santa Fe Farmers Market

A great market that runs even in the winter. 

Shiprock, Santa Fe

If you are a fan of Navajo weaving, make it a point to stop by at this elegant gallery. They have an impressive collection of antique Navajo rugs and blankets, as well as a stunning collection of jewellery from Native American designers. 

Taos Pueblo

With the Taos mountain as a dramatic backdrop, this is one of the oldest communities in the US. Make sure to take a guided tour of this UNESCO world heritage site to gain a better understanding of its history and architecture, and to hear insider stories of life in the pueblo. Most Taos Pueblo Indians have moved out of the pueblo by now, but a number return every day to sell pottery and jewellery to tourists from their family homes. If you want to catch a glimpse of the interior of a pueblo dwelling, visit a shop or two and chat with the owners about pueblo life.  

Tip

If the high altitude is affecting you, get yourself some osha from Old Town Herbal. Osha is a New Mexican root and it will bring air into your lungs and clear your aching head in a way that seems like magic.