The Second Best House in Seoul
In a city full of hipster cafes and teahouses ranging from the rustic to the minimal, the quaintly named teahouse, Seoulseo Duljjaero Jalhaneun Jip (The Second Best House in Seoul), has stolen my heart. Begun in 1976 and little altered since, the teahouse exudes a retro Western charm combined with a Korean sensibility. The cottage-like brick exterior, the large sliding windows, and the leather and chrome chairs are hat-tips to Western modernity.
The walls lined with Korean handmade paper (with leaves embedded) and the thoughtfully chosen calligraphy that hangs on these walls are reminders of the teahouse's Korean roots.
Seoulseo Duljjaero Jalhaneun Jip's menu is also proudly Korean. The offerings are limited, but they do each item well. They are best known for their danpatjuk (sweet red bean porridge) and their ssanghwatang (a bitter herbal medicinal tea). I am also a fan of their sujeonggwa (ginger and persimmon punch). There is nothing newfangled here; they serve up traditional Korean sweets and drinks as they have been made since time immemorial.
Taken altogether, the teahouse seems to say confidently that we are both modern and traditional; there is nothing unusual or contradictory about this. The sense of calm here attracts a wide cross-section of society. There are a few tourists, but it is mostly Koreans of all ages who visit. Some come to relive the memories of their youth; others are here because this teahouse, now considered a heritage site by the city of Seoul, is still part of their everyday lives.
If life is like flowing water, as an elegant piece of calligraphy on the back wall states, then Seoulseo Duljjaero Jalhaneun Jip is where you can float gently along, resting easy for a while.
